Techniques
My Techniques
The majority of my flower shots are taken in studio conditions and my aim is to pass on some hints and tips to allow others to follow suit.
This page will develop over the coming weeks as content is added. Please feel free to return to monitor it's progress.
I recently acquired the Nikon D7000 after previously using the Nikon D300 and Nikon D80. My favourite and most commonly used lens is the Tamron 90mm macro; a superb lense producing fantastic pin-sharp images throughout it's settings. The Sigma equivalent could be used and I believe produces images of equal quality. If using a compact digital, then perhaps most have a macro or super macro setting and these should be used when possible. I always use a tripod for stability as I often use a long exposure and then a remote control to avoid any camera shake.
You will note from the Floral Art and Roses sections that much of my work bucks the trend of many flower photographers. Most seem to give emhasis to the main subject whilst keeping the background "au naturale" but maybe out of focus.
I was determined to be different in my approach and hence decided to use black velvet as a backdrop for many of the shots. The reason being that I feel it emphasises the colours of the subject and makes it stand out more. Not to everyone's tastes I know, but that is what I have chosen to do and that is what I will stick with for the time being.
With regard to shots in the Landscapes or Seasons portfolio's; I have tended to use a tripod when taking these shots, it eliminates any sign of "camera shake". I will always use a wide angle lens and often either a circular polariser to enhance cloud formations or an ND filter or ND grad filter to slow the water down or enhance the rich colours. The benefit of the ND graduated filter is it allows the correct exposure on the sky when you have both sky and landscape in the shot. I find that the "square" type filters allow you to line up the line of the horizon better.
Update (May 2009)
My equipment consists of:
Nikon D7000
Fuji S7000 (cracking model for "super macro" work, sadly no longer in production)
Lenses are: Nikkor 18-135mm
Sigma 18-200mm
Tamron 90mm
Sigma 10-20mm
Wedding Photography
I have over the last few years shot a number of weddings, all from personal recommendation (very flattering). Without exception all my clients have asked for a mix of both formal and informal/candid shots.
For many years in my early working life I managed hotels and looked after many wedding receptions. My experience was that the photographer was often the hotel staff's worst enemy...the kitchen brigade and catering staff work to a very tight schedule and this was often disrupted by the tardiness of the wedding photographer. I also attended a family wedding a number of years ago whereby the photographer failed to capture all the family shots.
For these reasons I make a point of visitng my clients prior to the big day on at least one occasion to ascertain their requirements, making copious notes of who to shoot with whom and who not to shoot with whom. I re-assure them that on the day I shall be as quick as possible and as unobtrusive as possible...after all it is THEIR big day not mine. I always visit both the wedding venue be it church, civil ceremony at the local registry office or other venue. Likewise I always visit the wedding reception venue and make a point of talking to the management responsible on the big day.
The above may seem bloody obvious to most but trust me, preparation prevents poor performance!!
Generally I shoot in JPEG format and can shoot anything upwards of 200 frames on the day. Always have the flash on board and more often or not use the Sigma 18-200. This offers great versatility for group shots at the wider focal length to candid shots at 200mm.
I don't profess to be a wedding photographer or advertise the fact, however the number I shoot is increasing year on year....so I must be doing something right. I hope that the above gives those reading this article some food for thought.
Mike
The majority of my flower shots are taken in studio conditions and my aim is to pass on some hints and tips to allow others to follow suit.
This page will develop over the coming weeks as content is added. Please feel free to return to monitor it's progress.
I recently acquired the Nikon D7000 after previously using the Nikon D300 and Nikon D80. My favourite and most commonly used lens is the Tamron 90mm macro; a superb lense producing fantastic pin-sharp images throughout it's settings. The Sigma equivalent could be used and I believe produces images of equal quality. If using a compact digital, then perhaps most have a macro or super macro setting and these should be used when possible. I always use a tripod for stability as I often use a long exposure and then a remote control to avoid any camera shake.
You will note from the Floral Art and Roses sections that much of my work bucks the trend of many flower photographers. Most seem to give emhasis to the main subject whilst keeping the background "au naturale" but maybe out of focus.
I was determined to be different in my approach and hence decided to use black velvet as a backdrop for many of the shots. The reason being that I feel it emphasises the colours of the subject and makes it stand out more. Not to everyone's tastes I know, but that is what I have chosen to do and that is what I will stick with for the time being.
With regard to shots in the Landscapes or Seasons portfolio's; I have tended to use a tripod when taking these shots, it eliminates any sign of "camera shake". I will always use a wide angle lens and often either a circular polariser to enhance cloud formations or an ND filter or ND grad filter to slow the water down or enhance the rich colours. The benefit of the ND graduated filter is it allows the correct exposure on the sky when you have both sky and landscape in the shot. I find that the "square" type filters allow you to line up the line of the horizon better.
Update (May 2009)
My equipment consists of:
Nikon D7000
Fuji S7000 (cracking model for "super macro" work, sadly no longer in production)
Lenses are: Nikkor 18-135mm
Sigma 18-200mm
Tamron 90mm
Sigma 10-20mm
Wedding Photography
I have over the last few years shot a number of weddings, all from personal recommendation (very flattering). Without exception all my clients have asked for a mix of both formal and informal/candid shots.
For many years in my early working life I managed hotels and looked after many wedding receptions. My experience was that the photographer was often the hotel staff's worst enemy...the kitchen brigade and catering staff work to a very tight schedule and this was often disrupted by the tardiness of the wedding photographer. I also attended a family wedding a number of years ago whereby the photographer failed to capture all the family shots.
For these reasons I make a point of visitng my clients prior to the big day on at least one occasion to ascertain their requirements, making copious notes of who to shoot with whom and who not to shoot with whom. I re-assure them that on the day I shall be as quick as possible and as unobtrusive as possible...after all it is THEIR big day not mine. I always visit both the wedding venue be it church, civil ceremony at the local registry office or other venue. Likewise I always visit the wedding reception venue and make a point of talking to the management responsible on the big day.
The above may seem bloody obvious to most but trust me, preparation prevents poor performance!!
Generally I shoot in JPEG format and can shoot anything upwards of 200 frames on the day. Always have the flash on board and more often or not use the Sigma 18-200. This offers great versatility for group shots at the wider focal length to candid shots at 200mm.
I don't profess to be a wedding photographer or advertise the fact, however the number I shoot is increasing year on year....so I must be doing something right. I hope that the above gives those reading this article some food for thought.
Mike
